米其林餐廳

2003-03-04 17:20 pm
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 名廚的隕落 (W. N. Huang)

Yu-Sen 也在 Wine and Life 的留言版發表了一些看法
大家可以過去看看
或請他也來這裡講講話
 


2003-03-04 17:17 pm
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 名廚的隕落 (飆車女郎)

為什麼這篇的三個中文聯結都不行呢?
能不能找個可以看的聯結呢?
 
不好意思…英文不好又偷懶不想慢慢的看的飆車女郎


2003-03-02 16:19 pm
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 名廚的隕落 (sherry)

我想之前阿敗在另一則留言的意見
 
"我想是因為在追求美食的道路上逐漸地認識了許多非常優秀手藝精湛的廚師
與他們交往的過程中
漸漸地讓我深刻瞭解到一間優質餐廳的養成與一位好廚師的培養是相當可遇而不可求的事情
但是如果想要使一家好餐廳關店打烊卻是輕而易舉
只需一點暗示加上不負責的語論就足夠了"
 
大概就是"Words are mightier than swords!"這個意思吧!
 
美食與服務有時實在是非常主觀的
比較基礎是否一致也是一個非常大的學問(何種國籍的食物風格,食材新鮮與否,用餐者的年紀,餐廳定位,價格,自我在外餐飲的經歷,當天的心情,與餐廳主廚的熟悉度,當天用餐客戶的多少.................約可有近100項)
因此交換一次飲食的經驗是可以的
善意的提供顧客的建議也是好的
自我決定日後的飲食態度或是否再度造訪也是對的
但用比較嚴厲的言詞來表達"一次用餐 "的不滿情緒或給予不利的建議就值得我們深思了!
 
 
在今天網路如此發達,言論錯誤被引用且快速傳播的時代
我的經驗告訴我它通常傷害不了那些大而無當虛有其表的餐廳
卻很容易使的那些努力在美食追求上剛在起步而具備自我風格的好的個性化小餐廳受到嚴重的打擊(他們通常善於烹調食物卻疏於餐廳管理)
Sometimes "Words are really really mightier than swords!"

我的意思當然不是說餐廳或食物或服務是不可以批評的
也不是說我們花錢當冤大頭還要忍氣吞聲,悶不吭聲
也不是說我們要讓那些不良餐廳坑盡消費者的錢
只是有時"個案"是不是"通案"?
這家餐廳今天我們到訪如此但我們是否已經觀察到它天天都是如此?
因此在公開發言時多加一句"個人今天經驗如此"是否會更好一些呢?
市場自然會淘汰那些不把那些消費者當作衣食父母的餐廳!
 
依我經常在外用餐的經驗有時當場直接反映反而是最好的方式
通常外場經理不是換菜,送菜就是打折或是送一張貴賓卡
有時不打不相識
餐廳,廚師與我們都因此而獲益
 
 
 
以上僅供所有愛好美食的朋友參考!
 
 
長年在外用餐的Sherry
 
 
 
 


2003-02-28 06:00 am
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 名廚的隕落 (CEO亞瑟)

不想看龍長文章或不懂的人請看 . . .


2003-02-28 02:31 am
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 名廚的隕落 (W. N. Huang)

多年前讀過 William Echikson 寫的「Burgundy StarsA Year in the Life of a Great French Restaurant」,記錄 Bernard Loiseau 1991 年拿到第三顆星前一整年餐廳上下全力以赴的努力過程。我的印象中 Loiseau 似乎是所有名廚中最有活力、最樂觀的一位。聽到這不幸的消息實在令人難過。


2003-02-26 20:35 pm
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 名廚的隕落 (beccco)

剛在電話上從父親口中得知這個消息,
唉唉,怎麼這樣就掛了,人家還沒吃過他的田雞腿吶!
 
(以下錄自NYT)
 
Bitterness Follows French Chef 's Death

By CRAIG S. SMITH


SAULIEU, France, Feb. 25 — What killed Bernard Loiseau?

Mr. Loiseau, one of the country's most celebrated chefs, was found dead beside a hunting rifle in his village home here on Monday.

Within hours, France 's haute society was abuzz with speculation over the reasons for his death, apparently a suicide.

Mr.Loiseau 's death followed the downgrading of his highly rated restaurant here by the influential and respected
Gault-Millau restaurant guide and suggestions that it wasin danger of losing one of the three stars awarded it by the
all-powerful red Michelin Guide. Such downgrades in the past have driven chefs to desperate acts.

But Mr. Loiseau, 52, was also facing fallingprofits and exhaustion, his associates say.

"We don 't know why he did it, " said a red-
eyed Stephanie Gaitey, his assistant, sitting in a corner of the lush, rustic restaurant Mr. Loiseau bought in 1982 on
what was once the stagecoach route between Paris and the south of France.

But Paul Bocuse, France 's most famous chef, was quick to point the finger at the country 's restaurant guides,
whose ratings can make or break a culinary establishment — particularly one in an out-of-the-way corner of the
country like Mr. Loiseau 's Hotel de la Cote d 'Or.

"Bravo, Gault-Millau, you have won, " Mr. Bocuse was quoted as saying in the daily newspaper Le Parisien.
He said Mr. Loiseau had been distraught over Gault-Millau 's downgrade when the two men spoke by
telephone on Sunday. Mr. Bocuse likened the country 's culinary critics to court eunuchs, who "understand how it 's done,
but can 't do it. "

The death has revived a debate over the powerful guides on whose highly subjective annual ratings gourmets and
gourmands depend in deciding where to spend heavily for an excellent meal. Chefs spend years tweaking their
restaurants and their menus in hopes of winning a star in the Michelin Guide, whose three-star ratings mean that a
restaurant is worth a journey to enjoy. "I always told him the problem with being at the top is that you can fall, "
Mr. Bocuse said by telephone today. "I felt that pressure at age 40, at age 50, at age 60, at age 70. Now at 80,
 I 'm better able to deal with it. "

Mr. Bocuse said media criticism had also taken its toll on Mr. Loiseau, but Francois Simon, food critic at
Le Figaro and the journalist who had been hardest on Mr. Loiseau, retorted that France 's food writers
are too soft on the country 's great chefs. He said it is wrong to treat the three-star chefs as "untouchable
and under such economic pressure that we can 't question their talent. "

He wrote earlier this year that Mr. Loiseau was in danger of losing his third Michelin
star, an event that would be financially catastrophic.

He started as an apprentice to the chef Pierre Troisgros in the Loire region. He
became famous for his lighter style of French cooking, distinguished by sauces based on meat stock instead of
cream or butter. Mr. Loiseau bought the Hotel de la Cote d 'Or, a onetime three-star restaurant that had fallen
on hard times, in the Burgundy countryside.
In his effort to elevate it once again to its three-star status, he expanded the restaurant and added guest rooms.
He was millions of dollars in debt by the time he earned his third star in 1991.

To pay off his debt, he bought three more restaurants in Paris and licensed his name
to a line of vacuum-packed food and took the combined businesses public, billing himself as the first three-star
chef to be listed on a stock exchange. The demand of maintaining a three-star restaurant and a publicly listed company,
 however, soon took its toll on Mr. Loiseau and his reputation.
He had been to visit Michelin 's director, Derek Brown, in November fearing that he would lose one of his coveted stars,
and Mr. Brown had told him to "be careful, stay in your kitchen and don 't do too much business, " Ms. Gaitey said.

She said the tension was tremendous as they awaited Michelin 's decision. Less than two weeks ago Mr. Loiseau was
awarded three stars, but criticism in the news media had hurt the chef, she said.

"Journalists don 't realize the weight of their words, " Ms. Gaitey said. But she dismissed the suggestion that
the press or restaurant guides were enough to drive Mr. Loiseau to suicide. Nor does she believe he was
trying to escape a looming financial crisis.

She said the company was sound, and though much of the staff had been compensated with stock options
she denied that there was dissension in their ranks because of the company 's sinking stock price.

Still, the group 's revenues hardly grew at all last year compared to the year before and was expected to
report a drop in profit of as much as 20 percent for 2002.

Everyone agrees that Mr. Loiseau hadn 't been himself for several weeks and that he was worn out.

"We knew something was wrong with him, " Ms.
Gaitey said, but she said bleak winters in Burgundy were always difficult for him.
Ms. Gaitey said Mr. Loiseau planned to close the restaurant two days a week starting next year to give himself a break.
"Maybe we thought about that too late, " she said."He was always putting the bar higher and higher, and maybe
one day he woke up and decided he couldn 't go any higher, " she said. "It 's so hard to stay at the top. "

Ms. Gaitey said she last saw Mr. Loiseau inthe restaurant kitchen tasting dishes and talking with the sous chefs just hours before he died.

"His last words to me were, `I 'll see you tomorrow, ' " she said.
The restaurant remained open Monday night as word of the tragedy quietly spread among the staff.
But their resolve to keep the restaurant open dissolved today when guests came down to breakfast and found the staff in tears.

"We thought we could work, but it 's too difficult, " said Ms. Gaitey, looking around her at the empty rooms.

"He is here all around. It 's so hard for all of us. We need time


2002-10-06 12:16 pm
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 米其林餐廳 (becco)

 
ChungTao大爺的這一輪發言,就數這篇最深得我心!
 
沒錯,實在要多做功課,抱著撈本的心情去盡量發掘,否則結帳的時候覺得法國人在騙你的錢,或得諸「法國菜就是吃氣氛裝潢服務」的結論,那就太對不起自己了。
 
既然你還有一年才要去,現在開始準備就很充裕了,可以先看看書---樓上那位大作家已經"明示"的很清楚了嘍,另外彭怡平小姐幾年前出的「名廚的畫像」 http://www.friendly-cat.com/book/book.html 雖然資料已經過時----其中的名廚們有往上提升,有向下沉淪----但此書仍有可觀之處,就當作歷史或寓言故事來看吧,這叫「但求劍意而不求劍式」 !
 
另外,如果你能弄到Gault Millau指南來翻翻,那也是相當棒的課外讀物,英文版叫"Gayout's xxx(地名)" 亞馬遜上有得賣,或者上他家網站 http://www.gaultmillau.fr/ 雖然只有法文版,但是可以用ALTAVISTA 的http://babelfish.altavista.com/ 翻成熟悉的語言-----如果您的法文跟我一樣破的話。
 
不過這些都是紙上談兵,建議你去之前先遍嚐台北幾家有名的法國菜,熟悉一下口味,打個底,有朝一日上西天取經時,体會想必更加深刻。
 
對了,您確定真的要從三星吃起嗎?要不要先從一、二星級,或是巴黎許多極優秀的Bistro開始呢?一來得嚐循序漸進的滋味,二來不致徒留話柄在人間…
 
近日常自悔少作的
 becco


2002-10-06 02:48 am
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 米其林餐廳 (chungtao)

Becco貴公子,
 
喔, 原來是這個. 電視上常看到 ! 但是確實沒吃過...等等, 想起來了,
多年前在一個朋友家借宿, 他好像就是端這個出來當早餐,
還好那次我身上剛好有一瓶上好的果醬, 後來自己出去買新鮮的棍子麵包解圍, 就沒被陷害了... 
 
貴公子, 有這個吃不錯了, 想想全世界多少人活在貧窮線下. 不是每個人天生貴公子呵...
 
Gary,
 
這種高級餐廳還是早一點訂比較保險, 有的餐廳只接受剛剛好一個月前預定, 早了不收, 晚了訂不到. 你提到的那個該死的佳尼葉就是這樣. 我踢過兩次鐵板呢. 所以 -- 別太鐵齒. 告訴你一個小秘密: 每次怡蘭要到巴黎尋歡, 都是旅館機票還沒確定, 就趕快叫我幫忙訂餐廳. 可見多緊張了. 中午是會比較好訂, 但也沒好到哪裡去. 但是如果訂了, 臨時不去, 拜託, 一定要取消, 別給台灣人留臭名.
 
至於推薦餐廳嘛...對不起, 我認為吃這種餐廳和聽歌看戲一樣, 全憑個人喜好和品味. 如果你喜歡看楊麗花明華園, 我推薦阿妹周杰倫, 到時候你吃得不爽, 說不定回家後每天做小紙人寫我的名字拿針插? 上這種餐廳最好是帶著欣賞一種高級表演的心情去, 而不只是吃一頓高級餐. 我的意思是, 先做點功課. 一個平常看電視歌仔戲的人, 看野台劇時就比較容易進入狀況, 容易感動, 可以跟著哼, 跟著激動. 如果平常聽的是瑪丹娜和莫札特, 想一下子懂得欣賞明華園, 是有點強人所難. 你說是不?
 
網上可以找到不少這些大廚的評價風格的文章(比如, 在下敝人我的書或個人網站), 先找來看看, "先入為主"一下. 可是呢, 也要有一定的開闊胸襟, 尊重別人飲食文化裡的特色, 尤其是不習慣的味道. 別把人家法國菜吃成中國菜(比如說, 叫侍者去拿tabasco給你加...等等) 有辱自己文化人格的舉動.
 
在這種餐廳最好是跟侍者領班糾纏, 拿問題問到底, 把你所有看不懂得食材, 做法, 名詞統統拿來拷問他的專業能力 (這是小弟認為吃高級餐廳的最高樂趣和特權所在, 千萬別讓你的權利睡著了...), 包括: 胡椒是哪裡產的, 洋蔥是不是他自己種的, 乳酪是誰家做的或是他脖子上那條領帶是不是Versace的.
 
另外, 一定要徹底享受被人服務的快感. 比如: 沒有侍者來把椅子拉開決不坐下; 即使酒瓶就在手邊也絕對不親手倒酒; 或是故意將刀叉掉落地上享受四, 五個人同時箭步衝上來搶金子似的敏捷迅速...(嗯...好吧, 我承認最後這一項有點"那個") 
 
當然, 如果你是貴公子一族, 大二開始就吃三星的話, 上面幾句話當我沒說.
 
最後, 我可以問一個小小的問題嗎: 妳表姐需不需要高級餐廳的專業男伴遊?
 
必要時也可以喬裝辣妹的chungtao
 
 


2002-10-06 00:31 am
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 米其林餐廳 (Gary)

謝謝忠道跟beccco貴公子的回答
因為我表姐下二個星期就要去了,所以想再問清楚一點
1.這些餐廳不是聽說都要很早以前訂位嗎,那像我們一般人只去那待個5-6天,到那再訂位來得及嗎.午餐會不會比較好訂呢?
2.之前看忠道介紹加尼葉的餐廳,很受誘惑,不知道去到那再訂有沒有希望吃到.
還是說在考量到餐點的水準,訂位的難易,代表性等,有其他的建議,是否可推薦個1-2家
 
希望多吸收點經驗,有機會可以帶著辣妹去吃米其林三星的gary


2002-10-05 16:20 pm
發表者:原MSN社群發表文章 RE: 米其林餐廳 (becco)

常吃米其林的人,當然不會知道喜瑞兒---CEREAL---是啥啦!
 
就是什錦麥片嘛,可憐的學生在宿舍泡著牛奶充飢的東東
 
在歐洲類似的東西好像叫Muselix之類的吧
 
總之,是營養有餘,美味不足,讓人吃了一個禮拜口裡不得不淡出鳥來的玩意兒。
 
ps我吃的是貴格(QUAKER)的,有加craneberry和夏威夷果的那種果味,在同類產品中,算是比較有變化的了,下個禮拜要換蘋果的…
 
尋思在週末該如何補償自己的
becco


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